Los cinco factores
El puntaje combina cinco factores de riesgo ponderados, cada uno midiendo una forma distinta en que una colección puede perder valor o ser difícil de recuperar:
Cómo funcionan las ponderaciones
Seguro (35%): la cobertura frente al valor de mercado actual; señala la brecha entre lo que tienes asegurado y lo que tus cartas valen hoy.
Concentración (25%): la exposición a un solo jugador, set o carta. Una colección que es 80% un mismo novato es frágil.
Almacenamiento (20%): protección contra clima, fuego, robo, luz y manipulación.
Liquidez (10%): qué tan fácilmente tus cartas se convierten en efectivo a su valor justo.
Procedencia (10%): documentación, pedigrí de graduación y registros de compra.
Las bandas
Los puntajes van de A (≥880), B (≥750), C (≥600), D (≥400) a F (<400). Más alto es mejor. La mayoría de las colecciones empiezan en el rango C–D porque están infraaseguradas, justo la brecha que Slabline está hecho para cerrar.
Puedes crear tu propio puntaje gratis (hasta 25 cartas): añade algunas escaneando la etiqueta y Slabline valora cada una a partir de ventas comparables reales.
Storage (20%) — the physical risk
Storage scores the boring failures that destroy more value than any market crash: heat and humidity that warp slabs and fog holders over time, fire, theft, prolonged light that fades ink, and simple handling damage. A slab is more durable than a raw card, but it is not indestructible, and the grade on the label means nothing if the asset is gone.
A strong Storage score looks like a safe or a safe-deposit box, climate stability, protection from direct light, and — for the crown jewels — off-site or third-party vaulting that separates your highest-value pieces from a single-location catastrophe. The goal is simple: no single event in one room should be able to wipe out the collection.
Liquidity (10%) — can you actually sell at fair value
Liquidity measures how readily your holdings convert to cash near their market value. A blue-chip PSA 10 modern rookie sells in days at a price you can predict within a few percent. An obscure slab in a thin market can sit for months, or only move at a real discount to its "value." The number on the screen is only worth what a buyer will actually pay this week.
This factor matters most at exactly the wrong time — when you need cash, are settling an estate, or want to rebalance away from a concentrated position. A collection weighted toward liquid, widely traded cards scores higher because it can be turned into money without a fire sale.
Provenance (10%) — the paper trail
Provenance scores your documentation: verified certification numbers, grading pedigree, and purchase records. It is the lightest weight of the five, but it quietly underwrites the other four. A clean paper trail speeds an insurance claim, defends authenticity at resale, supports premiums for well-pedigreed copies, and makes a collection far easier to value and transfer.
A strong Provenance score means your certs are verified against the grader, your receipts and acquisition history are kept, and ownership is documented well enough that you — or your heirs — could prove what you have and what it cost.
The bands — what A through F mean
The 0–1000 score maps to five letter bands, so you can read your standing at a glance:
A (≥880) — well-protected. Insured to live value, diversified, securely stored, and documented. Genuinely rare.
B (≥750) — solid, with minor gaps worth tidying.
C (≥600) — typical. A real, identifiable gap, almost always insurance or concentration.
D (≥400) — exposed. A loss event would be financially painful and only partly recoverable.
F (<400) — critical. The collection is essentially unprotected; one bad day could erase most of it.
Most collections start in the C–D range, and the reason is almost always the same: they are under-insured. That is not a personal failing — the hobby has simply never had a tool that put a number on it. Closing that one gap is usually the single fastest way to move up a full band.
How to raise your score
Work the factors in order of weight, because that is where the points are. Start with Insurance: pull a broker-ready schedule and size your coverage to current market value. Next, look at Concentration — if one name or set dominates, future buys are a chance to broaden rather than double down. Then Storage: a safe, climate stability, and off-site vaulting for the top pieces. Liquidity and Provenance are lighter, but verifying certs and keeping records is nearly free and pays off the moment you ever need to file a claim or sell.
The Score is live, so each of these actions moves the number as you take it — which turns an abstract worry into a concrete, improvable metric.
What the Slabline Score is not
It is not a grade of card quality. A PSA 10 Charizard can sit inside an F-rated collection if it is uninsured and stored badly; a thoughtful, fully covered collection of mid-grade cards can score an A. The Score rates protection, not greatness.
It is also not an appraisal, an insurance policy, or a prediction of future price. Slabline is not an insurer or a broker. The Score is an informational protection score built to show you where you are exposed and what to do about it — the values behind it are estimates from recent comparable sales, not a certified appraisal or financial advice.
How Slabline calculates it
Every slab in your collection is valued from real comparable sales — recent transactions of the same card and grade aggregated across the major marketplaces — so the Score is anchored to what the market is actually paying, not a static price-guide figure. Slabline then scores each of the five factors against those live values, applies the weights, and sums to a single 0–1000 number. As values move and as you add coverage or storage details, the Score updates with them.
You can read the full approach on the methodology page — including how comparable sales are selected and how each factor is measured.
Build your score free
You can build your own Slabline Score free for up to 25 cards. Add a few slabs by scanning the certification label — Slabline reads the cert, values the card from real comparable sales, and computes your Score across all five factors in seconds. From there you get a broker-ready insurance schedule and a clear, prioritized path to a better number.
