다섯 가지 요소
이 점수는 가중치가 부여된 다섯 가지 리스크 요소를 결합합니다. 각각 컬렉션이 가치를 잃거나 회수하기 어려워지는 서로 다른 방식을 측정합니다:
가중치 작동 방식
보험(35%): 현재 시장 가치 대비 보장. 보험에 가입된 금액과 오늘 카드의 가치 사이의 격차를 보여줍니다.
집중도(25%): 단일 선수·세트·카드에 대한 노출. 80%가 같은 신인인 컬렉션은 취약합니다.
보관(20%): 기후·화재·도난·빛·취급에 대한 보호.
유동성(10%): 카드가 적정 가치로 얼마나 쉽게 현금화되는지.
출처(10%): 문서, 등급 이력, 구매 기록.
등급대
점수는 A(≥880), B(≥750), C(≥600), D(≥400), F(<400)로 나뉩니다. 높을수록 좋습니다. 대부분의 컬렉션은 보험이 부족하기 때문에 C~D 범위에서 시작합니다. 바로 Slabline이 메우기 위해 만들어진 격차입니다.
최대 25장까지 무료로 자신의 점수를 만들 수 있습니다. 라벨을 스캔해 몇 장을 추가하면 Slabline이 실제 거래 비교가로 각 카드를 평가합니다.
Storage (20%) — the physical risk
Storage scores the boring failures that destroy more value than any market crash: heat and humidity that warp slabs and fog holders over time, fire, theft, prolonged light that fades ink, and simple handling damage. A slab is more durable than a raw card, but it is not indestructible, and the grade on the label means nothing if the asset is gone.
A strong Storage score looks like a safe or a safe-deposit box, climate stability, protection from direct light, and — for the crown jewels — off-site or third-party vaulting that separates your highest-value pieces from a single-location catastrophe. The goal is simple: no single event in one room should be able to wipe out the collection.
Liquidity (10%) — can you actually sell at fair value
Liquidity measures how readily your holdings convert to cash near their market value. A blue-chip PSA 10 modern rookie sells in days at a price you can predict within a few percent. An obscure slab in a thin market can sit for months, or only move at a real discount to its "value." The number on the screen is only worth what a buyer will actually pay this week.
This factor matters most at exactly the wrong time — when you need cash, are settling an estate, or want to rebalance away from a concentrated position. A collection weighted toward liquid, widely traded cards scores higher because it can be turned into money without a fire sale.
Provenance (10%) — the paper trail
Provenance scores your documentation: verified certification numbers, grading pedigree, and purchase records. It is the lightest weight of the five, but it quietly underwrites the other four. A clean paper trail speeds an insurance claim, defends authenticity at resale, supports premiums for well-pedigreed copies, and makes a collection far easier to value and transfer.
A strong Provenance score means your certs are verified against the grader, your receipts and acquisition history are kept, and ownership is documented well enough that you — or your heirs — could prove what you have and what it cost.
The bands — what A through F mean
The 0–1000 score maps to five letter bands, so you can read your standing at a glance:
A (≥880) — well-protected. Insured to live value, diversified, securely stored, and documented. Genuinely rare.
B (≥750) — solid, with minor gaps worth tidying.
C (≥600) — typical. A real, identifiable gap, almost always insurance or concentration.
D (≥400) — exposed. A loss event would be financially painful and only partly recoverable.
F (<400) — critical. The collection is essentially unprotected; one bad day could erase most of it.
Most collections start in the C–D range, and the reason is almost always the same: they are under-insured. That is not a personal failing — the hobby has simply never had a tool that put a number on it. Closing that one gap is usually the single fastest way to move up a full band.
How to raise your score
Work the factors in order of weight, because that is where the points are. Start with Insurance: pull a broker-ready schedule and size your coverage to current market value. Next, look at Concentration — if one name or set dominates, future buys are a chance to broaden rather than double down. Then Storage: a safe, climate stability, and off-site vaulting for the top pieces. Liquidity and Provenance are lighter, but verifying certs and keeping records is nearly free and pays off the moment you ever need to file a claim or sell.
The Score is live, so each of these actions moves the number as you take it — which turns an abstract worry into a concrete, improvable metric.
What the Slabline Score is not
It is not a grade of card quality. A PSA 10 Charizard can sit inside an F-rated collection if it is uninsured and stored badly; a thoughtful, fully covered collection of mid-grade cards can score an A. The Score rates protection, not greatness.
It is also not an appraisal, an insurance policy, or a prediction of future price. Slabline is not an insurer or a broker. The Score is an informational protection score built to show you where you are exposed and what to do about it — the values behind it are estimates from recent comparable sales, not a certified appraisal or financial advice.
How Slabline calculates it
Every slab in your collection is valued from real comparable sales — recent transactions of the same card and grade aggregated across the major marketplaces — so the Score is anchored to what the market is actually paying, not a static price-guide figure. Slabline then scores each of the five factors against those live values, applies the weights, and sums to a single 0–1000 number. As values move and as you add coverage or storage details, the Score updates with them.
You can read the full approach on the methodology page — including how comparable sales are selected and how each factor is measured.
Build your score free
You can build your own Slabline Score free for up to 25 cards. Add a few slabs by scanning the certification label — Slabline reads the cert, values the card from real comparable sales, and computes your Score across all five factors in seconds. From there you get a broker-ready insurance schedule and a clear, prioritized path to a better number.
